This year I am teaching several hand embroidery classes at two different locations in the UK. Starting next month I will be teaching two day classes in goldwork bee brooches at Atelier Beside The Sea in Brighton. Atelier Beside The Sea is a new gallery, shop and teaching space located on the Brighton seafront founded by Jon Tutton and Sarah Young, creators of the MADE craft fairs. 

The class is designed to introduce you to the hand embroidery technique of goldwork through several different techniques that I have incorporated into the design of the goldwork bee brooch. These techniques include; using padding to create raised embroidery, applying pearl purl to create outlines and the filling techniques of cutwork and chipping. You'll work with specialist goldwork wires to create your own bee brooch and I will show you how to turn your embroidery into a neatly finished brooch.

This class runs from 10.00 to 17.00 on Wednesday the 18th of August and Thursday the 23rd of September. For more details and to book your place visit the Atelier Brighton website here. A lovely lunch from a nearby food market is included in the course fee.

This week sees a new addition to my online shop, a collection of pressed flower art.

Since the end of August I have been collecting flowers and leaves and preserving them by pressing them between pages of old magazines. It takes a month before the flowers are ready to be taken out of the press but I gradually managed to amass a sizeable collection of pressed flowers, leaves and grasses. Most have been collected from my own garden or responsibly picked from local countryside. With these plant materials I have created a small collection of pressed flower artworks. I created arrangements of flowers and leaves and mounted them on high quality acid free card. They are left unframed so that you can make your own choice of frame to match your decor.

If you are aware of my embroidery work you will know that a lot of my pieces include flowers. In the case of my three dimensional goldwork flowers I try to imitate flowers with goldwork embroidery but I felt it would be nice to work with real flowers for a change and to diversify my online shop a little.

You can browse and purchase the full collection of pressed flowers artworks in my shop. I hope you like this new addition to my shop and do keep your eyes out for new pieces as I add them over the coming months. 

Last year I was selected as a finalist in the Hand & Lock Prize for a second time, I had entered the prize in 2017 and was awarded third place in the fashion open category, this time I entered the textile art open category. In November the time came for the Hand & Lock Prize exhibition at Bishopsgate Institute in London which was a two day event followed by the judging and prize giving event in the evening, at which I was delighted to be awarded first place in the textile art open category.

The exhibition was visited by many embroidery enthusiasts and members of the public who all voted for their favourites in each category. Voting continued during the prize giving event which was attended by industry experts and the independent judging panel. It was a real honour to meet so many embroidery enthusiasts and industry experts and to speak to so many people who share my passion for embroidery.

The brief for the 2019 Prize was titled ‘Fool The Senses’. In response to the brief I created four goldwork flower sculptures which represent each season of the year through the flowers they contain. Each sculpture is hand embroidered using the technique of goldwork and goes through many processes in order to turn the flat embroidery into a three dimensional sculpture. This is a technique I developed in 2017 when I first started experimenting with creating 3D flowers with goldwork embroidery.

In these sculptures I focused on the intricate textures and patterns of the flowers I had chosen and aimed to imitate these with goldwork wires. The sculptures aim to fool the senses by creating flowers which, despite the use of metal threads, retain the delicacy of their real life counterparts. I created a fabric from metal leaf and organza for the undersides of the petals and leaves which gives the impression of a hard metallic surface but it is actually soft and pliable. The choice of a limited colour palette of only gold and silver was intended to put the focus on the textures and patterns that I created with a variety of different wires and materials.

The composition and display of the sculptures was inspired by Victorian dried flower arrangements and Dutch still life paintings as well as the work of photographer Jamie Beck. The floral sculptures are displayed in glass domes to evoke a still life arrangement.

The brief also asked for the entrants to consider the sustainability of their creations. In order to ensure the sustainability of the sculptures, I used imitation purls which require no mining for new precious metals. These purls don’t tarnish so there is no need for them to be replaced; therefore it is an everlasting floral arrangement which can replace the need for fresh flowers which often travel long distances. I sourced glass domes which are made from recycled glass with sustainable mango wood bases.

You can see more photos of the goldwork flower sculptures on the gallery page.

Recently I have been experimenting with natural dyeing as a way to create more sustainable colours for embroidery. I have been extracting colour from a variety of plants including nettles, eucalyptus leaves and thyme with the aim of creating a wide range of natural colours.

I made this short video showing all the processes involved in creating a naturally dyed fabric. This includes mordanting the fabric in diluted soya milk which helps the dye bond to the fabric, extracting colour from marigold petals, dyeing the fabric and finishing the fabric by rinsing out excess dye.

All video content is copyright of Hannah Mansfield.

Glorious Goldwork by Sarah Rakestraw and Susan Hinde of Golden Hinde.

Golden Hinde is a family run business with many years of experience of goldwork, they have incredible knowledge of the technique and this, their first book, is a very comprehensive guide to goldwork.

At the front of the book is an extensive guide to all the goldwork threads/wires that are available. This is particularly valuable as there is such a wide variety of threads/wires for goldwork that it can sometimes be confusing to identify what a particular thread/wire is used for. Also included in this section is information on fabrics and tools.

The next section of the book covers the techniques which form the basis of goldwork such as padding, applying pearl purl, cutwork and couching. It also includes the more detailed and complex techniques, for example, s-ing, plate and Or Nué. This makes it the perfect guide for those wishing to learn goldwork, who are starting from scratch and also those who are already familiar with the technique and looking to further their skills.

Then the book discusses basic embroidery stitches and includes some instructions of how to create them. I think the inclusion of these is so important as many of the basic embroidery stitches form the basis of goldwork but are just worked with different threads.

Included in the next section of the book are the projects which are a good variety of simpler and more complex designs. The projects utilise many of the skills included in the book, making them an excellent way to practice techniques. I think many of these designs would be particularly useful to goldwork beginners to who may not yet feel confident enough to create their own goldwork designs.

The book finishes with a collection of photographs of goldwork worked by Sarah and Susan, several goldwork artists and students of Golden Hinde. They are intended as inspiration and examples of the different designs that can be created with goldwork.

From my own perspective as an embroidery artist, I will find the technique section of the book extremely used to refer to for instructions and inspiration of which techniques to include when I am creating designs. I have been using goldwork in my work for a few years now but there is plenty in the book that I didn’t know or have not yet tried. I also think the guide to threads and wires will be helpful for picking out different threads to diversify the range that I currently use.

The book does focus more on the traditional style of goldwork, that being goldwork worked on a flat fabric. But I do believe that traditional techniques must be mastered before anything experimental can be attempted.

Overall Glorious Goldwork includes clear instructions, beautiful photographs, excellent examples of goldwork designs and is well designed with a clear layout. It is suitable for learning goldwork or as a reference guide for the more experienced.

A small collection of goldwork insects all hand embroidered by me, are now available at Pentlja Concept Store in Ljubljana, Slovenia. Each insect is embroidered with goldwork threads in silver and gold, with highlights of purple, green and blue. They are embroidered on black wool felt and made into brooches and sew on patches,

I will also be launching my own online shop soon, where I will be selling a selection of hand embroidered goldwork and Swarovski crystal bee patches and brooches. If you would like to be notified when the shop opens you can sign up to my mailing list. To do so please send me an email using the email form on the contact page. Later this year, framed embroideries featuring bees and insects will also be available in the online shop.

My Instagram account @theperpetualmaker is the best place to see regular updates about what I am currently embroidering. If you are not already following me, you might like to take a look!

A couple of weeks ago I was interviewed by Rebeckah Kemi Apara from Embellished Talk. Follow the link to read about my work, the books that inspire me and a couple of my favourite embroiderers on Instagram. http://www.embellishedtalk.com/the-perpetual-maker/

Today I am going to introduce you to one of the samples that went on to become a part of my jumpsuit design for the Hand & Lock Prize. This sample was developed towards the end of my project and combines features of other samples that I had been developing for several months. It uses tambour embroidered honeycomb as a base, this is a tambour stitch which is normally used for cutwork but here I have just used it to create the pattern. Over the top of this I have embroidered goldwork and Swarovski gemstone bees. The honeycomb is then tambour beaded with pearls and square cut glass beads.

This sample became one of my favourites and I decided to use it as part of my garment design. As the theme of the 2017 Prize was celebration, I decided that black wasn’t the right colour and instead used golden honey coloured organza. The honeycomb pattern was used all over the jumpsuit and on the belt which also featured the goldwork and Swarovski gemstone bees. The bees were also used on the tulle overlay so that they appeared to be floating above the honeycomb underneath.